Sorry we've been so long getting the website updated - we ran into technical difficulties.
Before leaving Isla Mujeres February 2, Bob topped off the fuel tanks with diesel at $.86/liter (~$2.00 per gallon) - we heard it was more than twice as much in Belize. On our sail down the Yucatan to Puerto Aventuras, our fuel tank leaked and little Rosita laid in diesel fuel again. She was under the weather for a few days and we were very worried about her. Thankfully, she bounced back to her normal, playful/lazy self.
We spent a few nights in Puerto Aventuras, a touristy resort-marina, with a swim-with-the-dolphin pen, and a place to be in the pool with manatee and sea lions. It was fun to watch the dolphin lift grown men in the air and swim with them on their nose for 25 to 30 feet. Not our usual environment. We thought of getting in with the fun, though, but continued the perpetual searched for wi-fi instead.
We rented a car and drove to Tulum, to
see the Myan ruins on the coast. When Bob visited several years
ago, the ruins were in decay with people walking all over them. That
was before the Government stepped in to commercialize it and clean it
up. It is a major tourist attraction.
Then we
drove 40 miles south to Playa de Carmen, a shoppers paradise frequented by
tourists and visitors from cruise ships docked at Cozumel. It was fun to
spend the day in such extremes - historic ruins and shopping mecca. We
even went to ... you guessed it ... WalMart! We can't seem to get
away.
On Friday, February 8, 6:45a we disconnected from shore power and cast off from the med-moor, leaving the comfort of a marina, and heading out on an overnight passage to San Pedro, Ambergris Cay, Belize. Maggie has become so accustomed to overnight passages it seemed like just another cruise. The forecast was for good weather before deteriorating Saturday night. Knowing that we were leaving the area of Verizon's data connection, Maggie made the most of her BlackBerry - getting and sending every last email.
We motor sailed through the night, fighting a 2+ knot current and seeing no other boats and only one lighthouse. Early Saturday morning, we heard a helicopter overhead, and saw a Mexican naval ship off our stern. A few hours later, after crossing the border to Belize, we were followed by another Mexican naval ship - we felt as though we were being escorted out of the country.
We entered Ambergris Cay through a narrow cut in the 2nd largest reef in the world. San Pedro is busy with dive boats and lots of water activities. We wanted to get to Caye Caulker where our friends were anchored in a quieter spot. Customs checked in the boat and gave us permission to be in the country until Monday, when Immigrations would be open again. Rosie was exhausted after 30 hours at sea.
We took the water taxi back on Monday - what a busy place San Pedro is; you've got to watch out for the golf carts buzzing around the streets.
During the month of February, we were in Caye Caulker two different times - it's a fun and funky place. The island is about four miles long and one quarter mile wide. Everybody is barefoot, the roads are dirt, bars and restaurants abound, bicycles and golf carts buzz all over the place. Backpackers are everywhere. A native family stopped by the boat to sell us some lobsters and fish in exchange for a few beers.
We buddy-boated with Angelina for a few days in some of the cays, doing some snorkeling, and giving Bob a chance to spear four lobster on the last day of the season (well make that one big one and three small ones). We did some really nice sailing, enjoying how much we were saving on fuel. We stopped by Gilligans Island and snorkeled in crystal clear 84 degree water. The coral was great.
Above are typical fish shacks which are seen all along the cays. Actually this is a fishing hotel, with indoor plumbing consisting of a hole through the floor.
Some local fishing boats anchored near us, after selling us some of their "fresh" catch - 6-7 guys are onboard this boat for about 9 days - leaving in the morning to fish, finding a spot to anchor at night. They haul their 6 or so dugout canoes onto the deck, set up a tarp, and somehow find a place to sleep. No lights, no radio, and a tarp for cover. Nine days and nights on the boat!!!
One of the highlights of visiting Belize was meeting Harry, who introduced himself as mayor of Garbutt Cay. When he came by to visit, we didn't have our camera handy. Our friends Katrina and Rodney on Angelina captured this picture when he spent the day with them, diving for conch and getting some coconuts for gin and rum drinks. He's quite the character.
We entered the Caribbean Sea, leaving the protection of the cays inside the reef, and sailed most of the 26 miles to Lighthouse Reef. There we met up with old friends and made new ones, while we enjoyed snorkeling and a week of gold-star days. Lighthouse Reef is described in our cruising guide as "a Pacific-like atoll bounded on all sides by a continuous, well-defined rim of living coral." We were surprised to see a development being built on Long Cay - it is managed by a biologist who is ensuring it will be totally eco-friendly. And he had satellite wi-fi which made Maggie very happy. Wi-fi has even reached the most remote parts of the world.
Our friends on Evergreen speared a hog fish. We now call them the Gills since most of the time we were in Lighthouse they were underwater. We met Karen and Mike from BeauSoleil, two seasoned sailors who have lived onboard for more than 18 years and twice sailed around the world. Both Karen and Jan on Slip Away recruited Maggie to be a net controller.
Maggie is now a bonafide net controller for the Northwest Caribbean Net, Saturday mornings. They It's much like talking on the phone, which she does a lot and is very experienced. About 30-50 boats check in daily with their positions, get the daily weather forecast, ask questions and share information. Being net controller is a great way to meet other cruisers and feel connected to the community.
We need to head back to Caye Caulker, where we've arranged to meet Bob's son Matt and his girlfriend Vicky, who are spending some time with us.
Life is good!